Ile aux Cerfs, with its white sandbanks and emerald lagoon, must be earned — or rather, negotiated. The cheapest option: the public shuttle boat from the Trou d'Eau Douce jetty. Expect Rs 400 – 500 return per person, departures roughly every 30 minutes from 9 am to 4 pm, last boat back around 4:30 – 5 pm. Crossing time: 15 minutes. It's exactly the same island as the Rs 3,000 excursions, minus the lobster buffet.

The comfort option is the full-day catamaran cruise (Rs 1,500 – 2,500 per person): departure from Trou d'Eau Douce, snorkelling stop, fish barbecue on board, unlimited coconut punch and a detour to the Grande Rivière Sud-Est waterfall, where monkeys sometimes come to greet the boats. Book online or through your guesthouse rather than at the jetty, where prices inflate with the sun.

On the island, everything has a price: sun loungers Rs 200 – 300, parasols the same, and the beach restaurants charge hotel prices (expect Rs 800 – 1,200 for lunch). The smart move is unapologetic: bring your cool box. Picnic in the shade of the filaos, in peace, on the island's southern tip — walk 15 minutes from the jetty and the crowd vanishes as if by magic. The water is just as turquoise there, promise.

One last timing tip: aim for a 9 am departure on a weekday, outside school holidays. You'll enjoy two hours of near-solitude before the catamarans arrive around 11 am, and the best light for photos. The 18-hole golf course, parasailing (Rs 2,500) and giant snorkel tours are there if the budget allows — but honestly, a snorkelling mask and a dholl puri sandwich are all the happiness you need. Local tip: the coconut sellers at the jetty make an excellent « dessert » for Rs 75.