Port Louis Central Market first, an institution since 1844: open Monday to Saturday from 5:30 am to 5:30 pm (Sunday until noon), it stacks pyramids of vegetables, mountains of spices, « miracle » herbal teas and souvenirs under a listed iron hall. Go upstairs for vacoas baskets and embroidered tablecloths, but first taste an iced alouda on the ground floor (Rs 30) — the historic stand has the longest queue, that's the one. Watch your pockets in the late-morning crush.
Flacq market, the island's biggest open-air market, is in full swing on Wednesdays and Sundays: market gardeners from all over the east unpack from 6 am, and the atmosphere has stayed 100% local. In the west, the Quatre Bornes fairs (Thursday and Sunday) are THE textile reference: household linen, light dresses and unapologetic knock-offs at knock-down prices. Mahébourg on Monday remains the most charming, between waterfront and cake stalls — combine it with the wild South itinerary.
What to bring home? Ground spices (massala, curry, safran péi — actually turmeric — Rs 50 – 100 a sachet), Bourbon vanilla (Rs 200 – 400 a pod depending on grade), special cane sugar, pickles and homemade chilli paste. Vanilla pods and rum clear customs without trouble; fresh fruit does not. For genuine craft — model ships, baskets, ravannes — prefer the workshops (Mahébourg, Curepipe) to the tourist stands.
The art of Mauritian haggling fits in one sentence: everything is negotiable except food. Vegetables and cakes have a fixed, honest price; souvenirs, fabrics and pareos carry a « smile margin » of 30 to 40%. Ask « Komie sa? », halve the answer with a big smile, and meet in the middle over a compliment about the goods. If the seller isn't laughing, you've gone too low. Local tip: the best deals happen at closing time, as the stalls pack up — and always in cash, small notes.