Trou aux Biches is the beach of superlatives: two kilometres of golden sand, a shallow turquoise lagoon with a gentle slope, and sunsets to cry over. Snorkelling is excellent from 30 metres offshore (clownfish near the coral heads at the north end). The kiosks serve grilled fish and fruit salads for Rs 150 – 300. Free parking along the coastal road, but arrive before 10 am at weekends.

Mont Choisy, right next door, is the north's longest beach: an immense curve shaded by filao trees where Mauritians play football in the cool hours. The water is calm and transparent, perfect for swimming proper laps. It is THE Sunday picnic beach — gazebos, sega and pots of briani — and on weekdays, an almost deserted haven of peace. During local school holidays, an informal campsite even springs up under the trees.

Pereybère, further north, plays in the « lively cove » category: a compact, deep bay, ideal for jumping in from the rocks, surrounded by snack bars, ice-cream parlours and bars. The vibe is younger and more buzzing — it's the beach where you stay until evening. Right next door, little Bain Boeuf faces the Coin de Mire islet: fine sand, few people, and one of the north's most beautiful panoramas.

Two lesser-known gems to complete the tour: La Cuvette in Grand Baie, a tiny enclosed beach with deep water much loved by local swimmers (free showers and parking), and Anse La Raie in the far north-east, kingdom of beginner kitesurfers with views over the northern islands. Grand Baie's public beach mostly serves as a catamaran departure point — for sunbathing, choose La Cuvette instead.

Local tip: the perfect combo is called « sunset at Mont Choisy ». Arrive around 4:30 pm, buy a candied pineapple (Rs 50) and a fresh coconut (Rs 75) from the street vendors, settle down facing west and watch the sky catch fire while the fishermen haul up their pirogues. Not a rupee more spent, a memory guaranteed for life.