Le Morne Brabant first, the UNESCO-listed mountain, refuge of the maroon slaves and symbol of freedom. The public trail starts from the south-west point car park (open 6 am – 4 pm, free): 3.5 to 4 hours return, 500 m of climb. The first half is an easy walk under the trees; the second climbs over rock slabs and the final section before the summit needs your hands. A guide isn't compulsory up to the first plateau, but strongly advised for the summit (Rs 1,500 – 2,500 per person, 6:30 am start to beat the furnace).
Le Pouce next, the « easy » 812-metre summit: 2.5 hours return from the village of La Laura – Saint-Pierre, an obvious trail, with a slightly steep but safe final climb. Up top, a 360° panorama over Port Louis, the northern islands and the whole central plateau — probably the island's best effort-to-reward ratio. Charles Darwin himself climbed it in 1836. Leave before 8 am: the sun hits hard from 10 am and clouds swallow the view by early afternoon.
Pieter Both finally, the legendary summit with its boulder head balanced on top (820 m). This is another category: vertical sections equipped with sealed rungs, real exposure, guide and harness compulsory. Specialist outfits such as Vertical World or Yanature lead the ascent (Rs 3,000 – 4,500 per person, half-day, book 48 hours ahead). Arriving under the « head » with the plunging view over Moka is worth every drop of sweat.
Don't forget Black River Gorges National Park to complete the picture: 60 km of marked, free trails, including Piton de la Petite Rivière Noire (828 m, the island's highest point) and the Alexandra Falls. Trail maps are displayed at the park entrances (Pétrin visitor centre) and the rangers happily share the day's conditions.
Now, equipment: proper shoes (flip-flops kill more people than sharks here), at least 1.5 litres of water per person, a cap, sunscreen and a windbreaker — it can be 10°C cooler up top. The best season runs May to October: dry trails, cool air, perfect visibility. In summer, start at dawn and be down before the afternoon storms. Local tip: after Le Pouce, the dholl puri of Saint-Pierre is a hiker's tradition.